Dining

Best view of Geneva at night:

The Dinner Table

A local winter tradition is to take a night ferry fondue cruise and sail around the lake while tucking in. On Fridays dip pieces of bread into bubbling cheese fondues, while on Thursdays use the long forks to cook morsels of meat in broth (fondue chinoise), served with various dips, salad and rice.

Where: Catch the CGN (Compagnie Générale de Navigation) ferry, Mont Blanc boat stop at 1930. Walk towards the lake from Cornavin, the main train station, and just before the Pont du Mont Blanc bridge you will see where to embark at the dock on the left hand side. Tel: +41 (0)848 811 848

Website: http://www.cgn.ch

Best sports bar:

The Clubhouse

Sure you're on holiday, but that doesn't mean your team back home is. If you want to stay up-to-date, head down to The Clubhouse for your pick of TV screens, sporting events and yummy gastro pub grub.

Where: The Clubhouse, Rue Philippe Plantamour 25, Geneva, Tel: +41 (0) 22 732 1022.

Website: www.theclubhouse.ch/

Best for snacking while sunning:

Chez La Voisine

Stroll down from the train station and across to the other side of the lake where you’ll find the relaxed area of Eaux Vives. Stroll through the <Jardin Anglais> (English Gardens) and visit the landmark 140m high water fountain, the <Jet d’eau>, where you can take your obligatory tourist souvenir snap. Having seen the sights, close by to the lake you can then catch the rays at Chez La Voisine, where you can try yummy tapas while people-watching from the large, bustling terrace. There’s a detailed menu to choose from and if it clouds over, inside is light and airy with plenty of space in which to kick back and chill.

Where: 8 Rue du 31 décembre, Tel: +41 (0) 22 735 1498

Website: www.chezlavoisine.ch

Best for wine connoisseurs and novices:

Boulevard du Vin

If you fancy a tipple before you head out for a night of dancing, then try one of Geneva’s most popular wine bars, the Boulevard du Vin. Styled with a traditional décor of large wine barrel tables and casks, this is a lively and popular after-work venue with friendly, pleasant staff. Don’t be shy about asking for advice or recommendations – that’s what they’re there for, and they’re more than happy to make suggestions of wines you might like. A local favourite is their Spritz cocktail, a fizzy mix of Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) and Aperol (a bitter liqueur similar to Campari) and it’s well worth a taste.

Where: Boulevard Georges Favon 3, Tel: +41 (0)22 310 9190

Website: www.boulevard-du-vin.ch

Gifts

Best souvenirs, knick knacks and Christmas gifts:

Place de La Fusterie

Look no further than the Place de La Fusterie for its Marché des Artisans, or handicrafts market. On Thursdays the square is crammed with stalls selling all sorts of art and craft work, while on Tuesdays and Saturdays you'll also find booksellers. In the build-up to Christmas the square is transformed into a winter grotto where, as well as picking up gifts, you'll also be able to savour hot mulled wine and other festive treats.

Where: Place de La Fusterie, get off the number 1 bus at Bel Air and it’s only a five-minute walk away, direction Rive

Website: http://www.artisanat.ch/main/pagescom/fusterie1.html

Chocolate

Best sweet treat:

Hot chocolate

Switzerland is rightly known for its chocolate, but it’s chocolat chaud, or hot chocolate, that’s a staple during winter months. For connoisseurs there is a wide variety, and some are almost meals in themselves! Try the thick, thick chocolat at La Théière Qui Rit in the heart of the Old Town, or visit the family-run Auer, one of the oldest establishments in Geneva. For hot choc Viennois-style (with whipped cream), pop into Arthur’s, while for a more sedate afternoon tea, slink into the Hotel D’Angleterre for panoramic lake views and sumptuous chocolate with your own pot of cream.

Where: La Théière Qui Rit, 15 Rue de La Cité. Tel: +41 (0) 22 3103647. Auer, 4 Rue de Rive. Tel: +41 (0) 22 3114286. Arthur’s, 7-9 Rue du Rhone. Tel: +41 (0) 22) 8103260. Hotel D'Angleterre, 17 Quai du Mont Blanc. Tel: +41 (0) 22) 9065555

Website: La Théière Qui Rit:

http://www.noogo.com/thiere/contact.ch

http://www.chocolat-auer.ch

http://http://www.arthurs.chHotel

http://www.dangleterrehotel.com

Days out

Best free Wi-Fi in a scenic setting:

City parks

Take the laptop outside and get some fresh air as you work from a park bench. The city of Geneva has gifted its many beautiful and tranquil leafy green parks with free Wi-fi – and it certainly beats sitting in an office!

Where: Favourite spots include the Parc des Bastions, Parc La Perle du Lac, Parc des Granges or Parc des Eaux-Vives, Geneva.

Best way to tour the city for free:

Geneva Transport Card

Forget paying for tourist bus tours when you can see the same sights without spending a franc, thanks to the free city travel Geneva Transport Card (pick it up at your hotel). Jump on the number 1 bus at Cornavin (direction Jardin Botanique) and take it as far as the bus stop, Jardin Botanique (Chemin de L’Imperatrice 1, tel: +41 (0) 224185100, www.ville-ge.ch/cjb/adresse.php) where you can wander through this park filled with more than 16,000 plants. Back on board, check out Geneva’s rather tame red light district as the bus passes through the Paquis towards the bus stop Bel Air. Disembark for perfect photos of the lovely backdrop of lake and landmark water fountain, Jet d'Eau. Hop off the bus next at Calas, in leafy, wealthy Champel, and visit the medieval tower, Tour de Champel (15 Chemin de la Tour de Champel) for spectacular city views. Board the bus again and jump off at Rive, the main shopping district full of designer and luxury goods. Wander up hilly side streets into the Vieille Ville (Old Town) before taking the bus back from Rive.

Where: Find the number 1 bus outside the front of the main train station, Cornavin

Website: http://www.tpg.ch/

Best hangout for a hangover:

O Calme, Carouge

Take an aching head from the night before for some peace and quiet the morning after in the sunny, leafy district of Carouge, just a short tram ride away. This district is often referred to as the ‘Greenwich Village of Geneva’ and the Mediterranean-like atmosphere of bustling streets, shady squares and walled gardens make it a real treat for visitors. Recharge your batteries at O Calme over poached eggs, freshly squeezed orange juice, croissants and pancakes. Best of all, the place doesn’t open till 10am so there’s no need to get up early for this scrumptious buffet feast. The café’s charming garden terrace is filled with trees and singing birds, but that’s as noisy as it gets – and if a slap-up breakfast doesn’t do the job, perhaps it’s time for hair of the dog?!

Where: Rue Ancienne 36, Carouge, Tel: +41 (0) 22 301 2220 (Take the number 13 tram from Geneva’s main train station, Cornavin, heading in the direction of Palettes and get off at the tram stop, Place du Marché)

Website: www.ocalme.com

Something Different

Best bizarre buildings

The Smurfs

Stroll into Les Grottes, the more alternative area behind the train station, formerly home to many of the city’s squats, and you’ll feel like you’ve entered a comic strip. Designed by three unconventional architects in the 1980s, The Smurfs – or Les Schtroumpfs as they are known in French – are Gaudi-like buildings inspired, obviously, by the famous little blue and white men. Definitely worth a look!

Where: Les Schtroumpfs, 23-29 Rue Louis Favre

Best for noses:

Theodora

A 'nez' or a ‘nose’ is the term given to scent experts with such a highly developed olfactory sense that they can distinguish between the thousands of scent notes, and are responsible for creating some of the world’s most famous fragrances. For amateurs and aficionados, however, you can take a visit to the cobbled back streets of Geneva’s 'Vieille Ville' (Old Town) and visit a veritable palace of perfume. The scent shop Theodora is decorated in the style of a Parisienne Parfum Salon and elegant staff are happy to take you through the history of perfume-making while spraying various samples for you to sniff out your favourite. The shop stocks a huge range of scents, including rare perfumes from the past.

Where: Grand Rue 38, Tel. +41 (0) 22 310 3875

Website: www.parfumerietheodora.ch